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15mm Modern Africa

 
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smirnoff
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Joined: 11 Jan 2008
Posts: 30
Location: Stroud (S'right tho, innit?)

PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 3:41 pm    Post subject: 15mm Modern Africa Reply with quote

More stuff from the old site (not made much recently, been up to my ears in 15mm Huns):















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Janick
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Joined: 21 Aug 2007
Posts: 527
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great....love all the metal roofed buildings!

regards,

Brad Smile
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Ambush Alley Games
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Joined: 03 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 2:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Absolutely awesome work. The detailing is fantastic, as are the choices in color and material. Bravo!
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Michi
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Joined: 09 Jul 2007
Posts: 1020
Location: Nürnberg

PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those bazaar people are so cool! And you absolutely caught the feeling with the buildings. Never been there, but it looks right as on TV. Shocked
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Faustnik
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Joined: 11 Mar 2007
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Location: Lisboa, Portugal

PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice stuff indeed.

A Great Source of Inspiration mate Shocked Shocked Shocked

Faustnik
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golani
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Joined: 10 Dec 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow, how did you do that????
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salpao
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Joined: 15 Mar 2007
Posts: 126
Location: Rome

PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look at here:
http://www.thecourtjestersstudio.com/WPM/home.html
Number 1

as very interresting no. 2 and 3

cheers
sa
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Hoplite
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Joined: 20 Jul 2007
Posts: 35
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 12:19 am    Post subject: Tutorial Reply with quote

Can you put a tutorial on how you did some of it as that as that would be perfect for my AK47 games and that looks great!!! VERY REALISTIC!
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smirnoff
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Joined: 11 Jan 2008
Posts: 30
Location: Stroud (S'right tho, innit?)

PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is info in Court Jester's mag as salpao has posted above.
However, I can't do a real step by step photo tutorial as I've made the kit (and don't need more).
But I'm more than happy to answer any questions you have and here’s some pointers on building Shantytowns:

Building
I got the original idea of how to build the Shantytowns from the Wargames Africa Yahoo Group. The method is simple, if a little time consuming, but great fun.
Use chamfered 3mm MDF for the bases, what size base depends on what flexibility you want on building what shape shanties; mine range from 2 x 6 through 4 x 3 to 9 x 9 (all measurements in inches). You can make them bigger than this, it makes no odds.
I pre-prep my mdf with a spray paint that has texture in it. I will post the name of it when I do the list of colours, this gives the base dirt’ texture. I then give the prepped mdf a spray of Humbrol Dark Earth and a kiss of Humbrol Desert Yellow.
Sketch the areas that you want the buildings in on the base. Remember that individual dwelling butt up to other individual dwellings but also remember that there are also rat run alleyways. If you want a ‘road’ wide enough to carry a base (I build in 15mm so my based for Modern Africa are 30mm x 30mm) then stick a road in, it does, however, break up that ‘sea’ of rusted corrugated iron a bit.
Once the building areas are drawn in get some cocktail sticks and a power drill with a bit that matches the width of the stick (bit smaller is better for a tighter fit). Mark the corners of the buildings and any sections in between the corners if there is a long wall, with a dot. Drill out all the dots.
Cut the sharp points off the cocktail sticks and then cut the sticks to length; remember that most of the buildings will have a slope on the roof for rain runoffs, so one side will be lower that the other. The low side I have done so that a 15mm figure on a 3mm deep mdf base standing off the building base would have to bend his head to enter a shanty hut. Glue the cut down cocktail sticks into the mdf.
Then you fill in all the gaps with 'walling' material. What you use for this is up to you but for walls I used anything that came to hand; bits of cereal boxes, card, offcuts of plastic embossed sheeting, plastic box steel sheet and corrugated plasticard in a number of corrugation widths (get it here: http://www.yellowcatshop.co.uk/shop/default.asp?clientid=14&gid=4dmod&tabcatid=3500087&viewstate=34817&txtsearch=corrugated ).
Don’t forget to do a few windows and leave space for a door (this can have a real door in it, a cloth drape or leave it open). Windows can have mesh on them (the fine stuff you get from Halfords for patching holes in cars). I glue everything with UHU and thick superglue.
For the roofs I used corrugated plastic. A handy trick here (and on the buildings) is to cut up the corrugated plastic into sheets to a size that mirrors what you can get them in the real world; so 15mm scale versions of 2 x 3, 2 x 4, 2 x 6 etc etc (all measurements in feet). Cut a thin piece of card to size for a single building roof and glue it down.
Then just lay then the corrugated plasticard sheets on so that if it rained they would stop most of the water. It’s a bugger to cut real corrugated iron sheets so just jam them in and don’t trim them off.
Remember that you are building something that would have been jerry built in the first place and then patched up time and again; so feel free to stick bits on at odd angles. You can use tin foil to mirror plastic sheeting (though this does need lashing down with fuse wire and needs using sparingly). Roof lines should vary even between buildings that abutt each other.
Then add oil drums, old sofa’s (make them, they are easy) the odd mattress (make them or Peter Pig do a mattress, piano and chest of draws set in one of their accessory ranges), rip car seats out of the cheap cars you get from Toy’s R Us, put a few old tyres lying around etc etc. You could do electric wires (I’ve seen real shanties where lines are botched onto overhead power cables and run into the huts…yikes……), incorporate burnt out cars, rubbish tips or whatever you fancy. Remember the eye will be entertained by the mixture of structure and chaos and detail can be sparse as long as it sits well and is logical.
If you want to do ‘shops’ build simple counters and make fruit etc from Greenstuff or Miliput.

Painting Shanty.
Black undercoat the buildings. I use GW spray. If it gets on the ground, don’t worry.
You then have a choice; you can spray the roofs with GW Space Wolves Grey (for that pristine corrugated iron look) then selectively spray with Plasti-kote Primer Super 1147 Red Oxide Primer, which works well for rust. Whatever you do, do it in layers.
Or forget the pristine look and just go straight for rust and spray the roofs with the Red Oxide. Again, layer.
For the rust on the corrugated iron on the walls use Vallejo Red leather and/or Derivan Light Chestnut. For pristine corrugated use GW Space Wolves Grey paint.
For the bright African colours I use Vallejo Sky Blue, Blue Green, Pale Green (I think, the label has fallen off), Pastel Blue anything that is bright really.
I then wash everything with Windsor and Newton Peat Brown Ink (in varying consistencies) and work back into all the colours with dry brushing in lighter shades; the corrugated roofs benefit from dry brushing in lighter shades but try and look at some real rusty corrugated iron in Africa it is VERY orange.
I then attend to the ground colours normally using variations of WF Rawhide A,B, and highlighting with Coat D’Arms Bone, Pale Sand etc. Again, if it looks too clean I will use thinned down Peat Brown to knock things back.
Pattern work on the cardboard sections of the walls is good, gluing reduced advertising images on and distressing then works, just have fun.
Then bind it all together with light (and I mean light) dusting of Humbrol Desert Yellow spray (this works on the roofs as a dusting of, well, dust) and works to ties the base of the buildings together with the ground. I don’t have an airbrush so cock this up on a regular basis. Hope this helps.
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