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Iwata Kustom TH.. anyone used one?
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Rigsby
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Joined: 08 Mar 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 12:59 pm    Post subject: Iwata Kustom TH.. anyone used one? Reply with quote

With my chrimbo money Im gonna splash out on a decent airbrush.

Was thinking along the lines of this one.

http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/airbrush/kustom/kth_info.jsp

Anyone used / seen this being used?

I like the idea of the fan effect Smile
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Rigsby
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

though upon reflection...maybe this one

http://www.graphicair.co.uk/acatalog/Iwata_Revolution_TR.html
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thomastmcc
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well mate i dont use that particular iwata but they are good ..
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Juha
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that trigger construction a single action thingy? I would have thought a double action one would be better. So you can not only control the amount of paint, but also the amount of air being released?
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Rigsby
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah...not sure of the technical terms.. but I quote "dual action controlled by the front trigger" Smile Smile
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PanzerschreckDS
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Joined: 26 May 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used the Eclipse HP-BCS for the last two years as my primary airbrush while I learned basic techniques. It's great for anything other than the really fine lines needed for things like post-shading and three colour camo. If you shop around you can get some very nice deals on the higher end Iwatas anyway with the .35mm or smaller needles. You might want to invest in one of the options that allows you to pre-set air-pressure and paint flow.

If you're looking at working inside the house while the kids are asleep you can get some very nice Delta compressors for around $200 USD that are very quiet (about the noise level of a small desktop Fan) and are small enough not to take up too much space. (Think 1.5x a standard shoebox)
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Rigsby
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thx for the help so far.

So which would you recommend for the basic model spraying, camo schemes etc

TR1 : Fine detail to 1" (0.3mm to 25mm) spray pattern

TR2 : Fine detail to 1-1/2" (0.5mm to 38mm) spray pattern

Im a tad confused because I didnt think you would be able to really tell the difference from a 0.3mm to a 0.5mm line.. and im surprised you can get a line that thin..

I really like the idea of the pistol grip.
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C_Collins
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Joined: 24 Mar 2007
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 4:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd be suprised you could achieve that with paint, India ink perhaps. Of cause you're unlikely to need to use India ink for modelling, though I have heard of it being used for black washes/blacklining.

all i can say is its suprising what you can achieve with a simple airbrush, my main airbrush is a Paashe H, and it does the job for german camouflage, and its a breeze to clean, and it also pumps out enough paint to do base colours quickly and evenly.

though with an ability to do .3mm lines you could use it to paint 20mm figures.
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PanzerschreckDS
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the degree of control over the line is a function of the needle size in the main, so I'd go with the TR-1 which has a finer needle/nozzle combo.

I used to think I'd prefer the trigger type setup over the classic button, but I found that I was able to get far more precise control with the latter because it actually felt like I was using a pen rather than just pointing.

As always, practice on card and past redemption models while you're getting to grips with it. Don't rush and don't expect top quality results at first. Start with basic coverage (base coats and swathes of colour) before moving to things like MERDC or Ambush type schemes. It won't take too long with regular practice before you feel comfortable moving on to more complex work anyway.

Even if you just do some basic spraying once a week you'll find everything starts to become second nature. You might want to look at getting speciofic airbrush paints for some colours rather than thinning yourself (If you use Vallejo, they have a decent enough selection of colours for Armour in their Model Air range) and you'll find the Tamiya acrylics + proprietary thinner a really nice airbrush medium - they are effectively designed for airbrushing anyway. One final note, be disciplined about cleaning and maintenance - it's too big a monetary investment to take shortcuts in that area.
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C_Collins
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 12:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wise words panzershreckDS,

I'm not that familiar with the Iwata brushes, are the "working components" of made of metal? if so get a ultrasound bath off ebay or simmiliar and use acetone, should ream out any paint build-up after a 10 minute blast in the bath.
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Rigsby
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thx once again for the comments.. its much appreciated.

Can you give a link to an appropriate ultrasonic bath so I know what to look for.
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C_Collins
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Cole-Parmer-branson-ultrasonic-cleaner-water-bath-8852_W0QQitemZ190179651128QQihZ009QQcategoryZ67720QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m118

thats the sort of thing, though a jewlery cleaner model would suffice I suspect.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/DIGITAL-ULTRASONIC-JEWELLERY-WATCH-CLEANER-BATH-600ml_W0QQitemZ200184610749QQihZ010QQcategoryZ67720QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m118

Some specialist electrical stores (ie the type who sell for hardcore ham radio types) sell them too, I'm not sure if you have an equivalent of Jaycar in England www.jaycar.com.au but that would be the sort of place.

They're also not bad for cleaning up old painted figures (with the right solvents).

Cheers.
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PanzerschreckDS
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the heads up on the ultrasonic bath, I hadn't even considered that as a possibility. <mutters away as adds to 2008 shopping list of necessary tools> Smile

P-J
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Rigsby
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone know how those sonic baths actually work?
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philhendry
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello all,

'retired' low-temperature physicist here - I used ultrasonic baths all the time for cleaning up bits of apparatus as I was building them.

They emit repeated pulses of ultrasound, which cause everything inside them to vibrate very rapidly - at ultrasonic frequencies in fact. This causes tiny cavitation bubbles to form and collapse in the liquid you're using for cleaning. These bubbles tend to 'shake' the dirt off things.

Things can get hot if left in for a long time. We also found that some plastics didn't enjoy even a short time in the bath - epoxy resins in particular - they tended to warp. Most metals are fine.

Phil
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