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Painting Guide: Skin Tones
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elhiem
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Joined: 07 Mar 2007
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Location: Birmingham, UK

PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 12:27 am    Post subject: Painting Guide: Skin Tones Reply with quote

Something that I have already done, no pics yet though.

For this painting guide I am going to suggest the three layer acrylic method using Vallejo paints.

Start off by painting all the flesh areas in the Base Colour.
For the mid tone paint the flesh with Mid Tone shade with hardly any dilution of the paint, depending on the contrast you require (sunken cheek bones, defined eyes, lips etc) depends on how much of the original brown you leave showing. I always like to leave a little edging here and there as on small figures it gives a nice effect at a distance.
Use the high lights sparingly and just add dots of undiluted paint to the nose, cheek bones, chin, a line across the forehead and on any other raised area of skin such as knuckles fingers etc.
Try to imagine the light coming from above and high light the skin where the light would land.
Lips should normally be the mid tone colour.


Pale European Flesh tone
Base Colour: Mahogany
Mid Tone: Beige Red
High Light: Basic Skin Tone

Tanned European Flesh Tone
Base Colour: Medium Brown
Mid Tone: Brown Sand
High Light: Sunny Skin

Oriental Flesh tone
Base Colour: Camo Medium Brown
Mid Tone: Medium Flesh Tone
High Light: Sunny Skin

Indian/Middle East Flesh tone
Base Colour: Medium Brown
Mid Tone: Beige Brown
High Light: Faded Wood

Africa/Caribbean flesh tone
Base Colour: Black Brown
Mid Tone: Leather Brown
High Light: Beige Brown
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pkv
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Joined: 13 Mar 2007
Posts: 278
Location: Bangkok, TH

PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Extremely helpful Matt, many thanks. Hmm, I use pretty much the same colours - scary or what?
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AJH
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Joined: 11 Mar 2007
Posts: 251

PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very cool, Matt! My skintone scheme is same as your pale european one. With exception that I use my old skintone pot instead of Beige Red. But I did recently buy Beige Red just to see I have reasonable replacement colour when my old pot runs out.

I haven't painted much ethnic troops but with this guide the skin colours shouldn't be a problem :->

-ajh
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Juha
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Joined: 11 Mar 2007
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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2007 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a similar method, except I use Vallejo Game colour tones. But with this guide I might be tempted to try out Model Colour as well.

Variable skintones will be usefull, thanks Matt!
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logan
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Joined: 22 May 2007
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2007 1:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent guide. I do have a question though on the following:

Quote:
Indian/Middle East Flesh tone
Base Colour: Medium Brown
Mid Tone: Beige Brown
High Light: Faded Wood


What is the number for Faded Wood? I assume the other two are 875 Beige Brown and 826 German Camo Medium Brown is this correct?
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elhiem
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Joined: 07 Mar 2007
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Location: Birmingham, UK

PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2007 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just went in to the Local Model shop and brought the Andrea 5 step flesh paintingf set Surprised
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pantherfish
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Joined: 03 Apr 2007
Posts: 351
Location: Saint Louis, Missouri

PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2007 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matt those are very helpful tips...especially for darker skin tones...natives
and asians. I am painting some Italian Askaris and the skintone is awful
so I will have a go with your "PAINTING-ALCHEMY" here is something I came up with...that works real well...
For nice effective five o'clock shadows this works real well

One method I have used for figuires...still to this day for flesh
is to do a skimcoat of basic flesh-(HUMBROL) let it set for a day and then I use German unfiorm grey(HUMBROL) for five o'clock shadow...and then after it sets then I proceed to wash-the color-out slowly layering-and highlighting...and the effect works well....the figuires do not look like hairy
gorillas or gangsters...just battle-hardened veterans

Chris
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elhiem
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Location: Birmingham, UK

PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2007 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For stuble I paint the skin as normal then where I want stuble I paint Neutral Grey Smile

The centra figures shaved head was painted this way:


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Aargle
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Location: Edinburgh, Scotland

PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 1:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I add a touch of blue to the grey for stubble
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vwg
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Joined: 15 Mar 2007
Posts: 74

PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2007 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do you guys paint Native American skin tones? Just use the Asian palette?

Joe, who, in person, is a little yellower than Beige Red
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Michi
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Joined: 09 Jul 2007
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Location: Nürnberg

PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

elhiem wrote:
For stuble I paint the skin as normal then where I want stuble I paint Neutral Grey Smile

The centra figures shaved head was painted this way:



I´d like to know from where you got the kiosk and pillar box? I tried to find appropriate models, but had them scratch built after I could not find anything. Is there any help available?



By the way, I always lighten up the basic fleshtone with simple white and soften the edges of the layers by washing them. Basic colours are from left to right red-brown, three times light flesh and dark flesh:

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elhiem
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The phone box is from Hornby railways scenic bits, which by the look of your excellent Cold War zombies won't help as they are OO (1/76).

Thanks for the flesh tips (some nice tips in there I note ;) )
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Michi
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Location: Nürnberg

PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2007 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

elhiem wrote:
The phone box is from Hornby railways scenic bits, which by the look of your excellent Cold War zombies won't help as they are OO (1/76).


*arrrgh* I feared to get this answer. I noticed the 1/76 Hornby stuff when I was sweeping through british model railway shops. You get loads of vehicles in 1/64 by manufacturers all over the world, but no roadside accessoires...
And it it almost impossible to find european styled railway equipment in S-gauge.

But thank you anyway!
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Michi
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Juha wrote:
I use a similar method, except I use Vallejo Game colour tones. But with this guide I might be tempted to try out Model Colour as well.

Variable skintones will be usefull, thanks Matt!


I use vallejo, too. Before it was Citadel, what I preferred. I used to make a lot of experiments before I got to a satisfying solution. It was not the lack of helpful advisory, but hitting the right contrast. Here is the result, which I keep as my painting standard for skin (body, hands and faces alike). I always use skull white to lighten the basic colour. Basic color depends on race or type (blonde, brunette, mediterranean) and is always quite dark for getting a good contrast. I know, some do not like this "comic"-style, but it is my way. Wink


Slightly darker skin (sofly contrasted) with transparent clothes:




Harder contrast with a dark basic colour and a light skin tone:




Extremely soft contrast by using a light basic colour with the same bright skin tone as above:




A basic colour between the two pics above, but the same skin tone.




Second example for the use of the same moderate basic colour.
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Janick
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Joined: 21 Aug 2007
Posts: 527
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked Shocked Shocked I KNEW MICHI WAS GOIN TO POST SOME BIG BOOBED BABES!!!.....i just knew it somehow.........


regards,

Brad Smile
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